From Marsh Harbour to the Exumas and back

Sunday April 12^th

Earlier in the week we had met up with Joan and John on Changing Lanes.  We met them about three years age.  They are from Newfoundland.  They are the kind of people you meet and you know right away you like them.  So we planned to get together after the kids left.

After we thought the Nashville group had left, Joan knew I was kind of sad so she ask me to her boat for a drink.  George joined us later.  All the time we were visiting Joan and John, Courtney and Scott were trying to get in touch with us. 

We left changing lanes to go back to our boat for a  little rest about 5:00. We were to have dinner with Jack at 6:00 at curly Tails.   About 5:30 Jack showed up at Celebration knocking on the boat.  He announced there had been a plane crash in Fort Lauderdale.  Jill and her crowd were to take off at 4:30 from Ft. Lauderdale to Jacksonville.    Courtney, Bob, Angela and Scott were to leave Marsh Harbour at 4:30 and land about 5:40.  We could not get any one to answer their phones.  The phone service is not good.  We could not get any news on our t.v. and the marina had already closed. We walked over to Curly Tails and asked if they would put it on CNN.  Jack called Lynda and got through.  She told us it was a private plane.  Then she called Jill and I had also received an email from Courtney about 7:30 saying they were still in the Bahamas and would hopefully leave at 9:30.  We wanted to go to the airport but we didn’t think we could see them because they were at the gate already.  She also emailed again and said if we don’t leave tonight we will see you at the boat.  As much as I wanted them to stay another day, I also wanted them to get back to USA.  About 9:30 I got in the cockpit to see if I could see the plane leave.  I went to the marina office where I could sit outside and receive emails. I received another email that said they were leaving tonight.  About the time I read the email, I heard the plane.  I was really sad to see them go but knew they needed to get back.  The only problem is that they would have to stay in Ft Lauderdale over night and still miss an extra day of work.

 Monday April 13^th

I was worried about the kids being delayed a whole day.   Today they had to spend waiting for the 9 PM flight to Nashville.

  Robert and Angela missed an extra day of work because of Silver Airways!  Courtney knew I was worried so she made little of all the stuff they had to go through.  Scott called and said the air lines had also lost Angela’s bags.  As you can tell I am not a fan of Silver Airways.  

Today, we were to rest and get reorganized for the trip to the Exumas.  We had also made arrangements for Joan and John to come over for dinner.  We had not said anything but lets do dinner together.  We are going to leave Marini at Marsh Harbour, so Jack brought some food over from Martini. Reorganizing made up a good part of my day. George was also getting the boat ready for the trip. We took out some Bar B Q and I made some slaw so dinner was easy. We showered and just did get everything put together when Joan came by to ask what time.  We said 6:00. Jack came over and asked George to call his phone.  Jack could not find his phone. He came back over and said he needed someone with good hearing to help him find it.  He heard it ringing but did not know where it was.  We had started over to Martini when we saw Joan and John coming over to our boat.  I called out and said we will be back.  Jack noticed they had a bucket of KFC chicken in their hands.  I think he got kind of excited.  He had been wanting to go get some KFC ever since we had been in Marsh Harbour.  We found Jack’s phone and went back to Celebration. Joan and John showed up with a wonderful chicken dinner so we put away our BBQ.  It was great catching up with them.  The next night we brought Bar B Q to their boat for dinner. Meeting people like John and Joan is one of the best parts of cruising. 

Jack and Joan

Me and John!  Fun people!

Tuesday April 14th

Today is full.  We are planning to leave for the Exumas Wednesday morning.  I was washing the sheets and some clothes.  George had to change the oil in the transmission and the engine.

George also found out we had to have a new cranking battery so he and Jack walked to town to buy a battery.  While they were gone Joan came by to ask if I was ready to go to Maxwell’s, the grocery store. I did but I had not gone over the final grocery list with George.  I had George’s phone in case I needed to get in touch with them I would call Jack’s phone.  Well, I called about 6 times during my shopping trip and no one answered.  When I got back I asked George why they didn’t answer and he asked Jack if he had his phone with him. Jack’s response was, “ no it is on the Martini, why do you need it?”

I put up the groceries and put the clothes up.  Jack and George had gotten the new battery and changed the oil and filter.  I warmed up the Bar B Q and put the cold slaw in a container.  The day’s work had been done and we were ready to enjoy an evening with some great friends.  We told Joan and John we were getting a RV.  We talked a lot about going to see Newfoundland when we get our RV.  It would be a great trip.  I will miss seeing people from all over the world.  We will meet people when we travel in the RV but I am afraid it just won’t be the same.

Wednesday April 15th

We left the dock at 9:15. Joan, John and Rey tossed us our lines.  Now it is off to the Exumas, the most beautiful part of the Bahamas.  I was to be at watch from 8:00 to 12:00 am and pm.  Jack was from 12:00 to 4:00 and George would take 4:00 – 8:00. We went through the Man of War cut and put up the sails. It looked like it would be a great sail into Nassau. Rey had told us we could be passing over some good fishing grounds south of Man of War, so I put out a line about 100 feet behind the boat.  Jack was at the helm and I was beside the rod. Jack kept saying how do you know when you have a fish on?  I told him, “ Oh you will know it.”  It was not too much longer until the rod bent over and we had a fish on.  I kept the rod in the rod holder because I thought that would be a better grip. George told Jack to slow down.  I was reeling it in and George said to take it out of the holder.  George wanted to take the rod because he was not sure how big the fish was.  I reluctantly gave him the rod.  This is usually one of our rules, you never take the rod from another person but we both wanted this fish!  I went down to get the gaff hook.  When I came up George asked if I wanted to reel him in or gaff him.   Of course I wanted to reel him in.  So he gave the rod back to me and I gave him the gaff hook.  Meanwhile, Jack had skillfully hove the boat to.  For you non-sailors that means he stopped the boat and gave us a slick to work with the fish.

I was trying to bring the fish to the side of the boat. He was breaking the drag.   George was afraid we were going to loose him, so again I gave him the rod and I got the gaff hook.  The fish was getting tired and George was able to get him to the side of the boat.  I tried gaffing him several times but that was not going to happen so I put the gaff hook up in his gills and pulled him in.  Man was that fun! 

After we got him in George fileted him and we put him in the refrigerator.  We planned to eat him on anchor in Nassau. 

When we changed course at Hole In The Wall, we were not able to sail, so we motor sailed 10 miles off course so we could sail the rest of the way into Nassau

It was a beautiful night, no engine noise just the sails.  The seas were about two feet. I looked out to the side of the boat and saw what looked like fireflies in the water.  I looked behind the stern and I saw a lot of these lights.  I knew it was not reflections of the stars or our tri color lights.  I planned to ask the guys when they woke up to take their watch about the lights. I was really enjoying the piece and quite when I noticed I had 6 AIS vessels on my GPS.  We were not using the radar because it takes a lot a battery power and under sail we were not generate electricity at night. Every few minutes I would make a visual sweep to see any lights from smaller vessels that did not have AIS, Automatic Identification System.  The AIS is really great.  It tells you, the boats name, how fast he is moving, destination, what kind of vessel, how big and most importantly the closest point of approach.  In other words, it tells if you were on a collision course.   It helps give you something to do at night on watch. I just wanted to enjoy the night, the water lights things, and the piece and quite.  Instead I was watching 8 cargo ships from all directions.  However, I was a bit sad when Jack popped up and said it was about 12:00.  My watch was over. Jack explained the lights in the water was from phosphorus in the water

We Anchor beside this lighthouse in Nassau.

Thursday, April 16 th

Our second fish, however this one just flew in the boat over night .

I woke up about 6:30 and knew if I got up I could see the sun rise.  Some how my thought was that I could get and hour and half more sleep if I just stayed down.  So that is what I did.  I woke up again at 7:30.  I needed to get up and make some coffee before my watch.  However George was just before coming into the Anchorage.  We had sailed all night on the same course straight into the anchorage!  The Captain is quite a Sailor and Navigator!  We sailed for 15 hours straight! I took the helm to let George get the anchor ready.  I put him on the spot and he dropped the anchor.  We anchored right next to the lighthouse and where the cruise ships come and go.  In fact, you have to call Nassau Harbor Patrol to ask permission to anchor.  We rested on the boat all day because we were afraid to take the dingy to the beach for fear it would not be there when we returned. Nassau has trouble with crime. I was reflecting on what a perfect trip, catching fish, sailing all night on smooth seas and then a perfect anchor next to the lighthouse.  It just doesn’t get any better than this.  As I was watching all the people on the cruise ships, I wondered if they knew what they were missing.  

We had half of the Mahi for dinner.

We watched several of these big boys go by.

The Mahi got us two meals.

Friday April 17^th

Got up rested and ready to go.  We have to use the generator to keep our freezer cold so we cranked it up while we were eating breakfast.  Today we had to go through the yellow banks.  This is where we go through a sea of coral jetting up out of the water.  I do not enjoy that part of the trip.   We anchored in one of, if not the most beautiful anchorages in the Bahamas, Norman’s Cay.  We decided not to go to Allen’s Cay.  Allen’s is where we usually get to feed the Iguanas.  In fact one of the Iguanas was named Celebration in 2012, thanks to Greg.  We have thought a lot about Greg and Charlotte on this part of the trip.  The last time we were here they were with us.  Miss you guys!  In fact we anchored right in front of what we now call Charlotte’s island. She painted a picture of this Island and gave it to us for Christmas that year.

Charlotte's Island

Saturday April 18^th

We woke up to another beautiful day.  After cooking biscuits and eggs, and cooling down the refrigerator with the generator, we took the dingy into Norman’s Cay for a walk about.  We also wanted to have lunch at Mac Duff’s, the only restaurant on the island. 

Another boat at anchor at Normal's Cay.

This is the island where Carlos Lehder moved drugs from Columbia to the USA.  If you can find a copy of the book,   “Changing the Tides”, it is a good read. The book tells you all about Carlos, the island, and Novack, a man who loved the island and wanted Carlos gone. 

A Long walk beside the airport runway.

The old airport runway was in disrepair in years passed.  The docks that we tied our dingy to were almost falling in two years ago.  Not this time, the docks had two nice boats at the newly repaired docks.  We walked around where you can take your trash.  This year, it was and newly scraped road.  The Airport has been cleaned up and expanded.  There were two small private planes at the airport.  We were walking to Mac Duff’s but with all the changes we were not sure which way to walk to Mac Duff’s.  We stopped and ask this guy in the truck and he asked if we wanted a ride.  I got in the front of the truck and George and Jack rode on the tailgate.  Feels like the old south to me.  We asked the driver what was planned for the island. He said they are planning to build a new marina, shops, and hotel on the island.  We got to Mac Duff’s and the driver said ask the bar tender, for a lift back.  Mac Duff’s looked a bit more manicured than three years ago. Still, there were no souvenirs on the island.  There were some people there from Russia, we think, that had flown there on a private airplane, and were staying in the villas near Mac Duff’s.

 We had one of the best grouper sandwiches we have had at Mac Duff’s.  By the way the fish sandwiches were not on the menu.  Jack happened to ask about fish.  After lunch we got some ice and caught a ride back to the docks.

We got a ride back to the dingy docks.

We walked around the old hotel and some old cottages, that were talked about in the book.  The locals do not like to talk about Carlos and the years he ran the island. Just to think of all the bad things Carlos had done on this beautiful island, kind of gave me a chill.  We got back to the dingy and headed to the boat.  We rested from our walks. 

Celebration at Anchor 

There was a big blue motor yacht named Temptation anchored beyond the small island, Charlotte’s Island.  The people aboard took their tender and went to the main island. Their tender was about a 28  foot center console with two 250 hp engines.  Later after they returned they took a smaller boat to Charlotte’s island and played around.  We know this because Jack is our informant.  He is really good with the binoculars.   That night while we were preparing dinner, we heard the people on Temptation partying.  Sounded like Temptation was the place to be.  After dinner we heard a loud sound like a gun.  We looked out the window and saw fireworks. Temptation entertained the anchorage with fireworks that night.  I just hoped they cleaned up afterwards.  I think this yacht is a charter but not sure. 

Celebration's view of Charlotte's island.

This is what is left of the Hotel that was a popular hang out during  Carlos Lehder's
era.

The Island at sunset. You don't want to know how many pictures of have of this island.

Sunday April 19th

The next morning we left for Warderick Wells, the Exuma’s Cays Land and Sea Park.  This is every ones favorite Place in the Exumas.  We had to call a day before for reservations for the north mooring field.  When she called out that we were the only one on the list, and asked if anyone else wanted a mooring ball, we were very relieved.  If we could not get a mooring ball in the north, we would have had to moor at Emerald Rock which would have been a long dingy ride.  There are trails in the park, long, hot trails.  When we got there we walked to Boo Boo Hill.  The reason it is called Boo Boo Hill is because there was a ship that sank off the coast near there.  They say you can hear the lost souls at night.  What you really hear are the blowholes.  It does sound eerie.  It was one long hot walk.  We stood on the blowholes and got some relief.  This is a beautiful place so I will let the pictures speak for themselves. 

The first boat is Celebration at the mooring ball at Waderick.

Monday April 20^th

We stayed another day and walked the trails. We also got off an email or two from the office.  There are no food store or restaurants on this Cay.  Just an office where you can pay for mooring balls, but you can buy ice.  So we got more ice today. 

Walking to BOO BOO Hill

Jack looking for the Celebration and Martini signs from years past.

Just another Sunset!

Tuesday April 21^st

Today we left for Staniel Cay.  This is the Cay where pigs swim out to your boats, and you can swim with the sharks.  George, Greg and Jack came here on their first visit to the Exumas.  George and Jack told me there was nothing here.  We called the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and ask for reservations.  Last time the guys came Celebration was the biggest boat at the docks.  Man has it changed. We were told to “hang out” in the deep water until a boat could leave the slip. Then we got the call to stay close to the boats and come around to the other side of the docks.  When we turned to corner, the current was pushing us and we were to dock between two big yachts on a long face dock.  When we docked the boat Jack jumped off and was holding the bowline with every thing he had where we would not hit the million dollars yacht in front of us.  When I saw all those boats, I knew it was going to be a hot evening.  We could get no breeze.  We were surrounded by Yachts that towered over us. We felt like country come to town.  We went to the bar and grill and met a really nice couple from Oklahoma, Gay and Wayne.  When sailors go from sailboats to motor boats you usually say they have gone to the dark side.  I have heard that several times this trip. Gay and Wayne had gone from a Valient sailboat to a motor yacht. She also remarked that they had gone to the dark side.  I am not sure if I would consider that going to the dark side but that is how people think if it.

We did not see any pigs meeting us as we were coming in but I did see the Sharks.  I even got into the water with a few of them.

George could not believe i was doing this.  I told him if he took
a picture I would get out of the water. 

It was hot!  Really hot!  We were south of Miami, and with the yachts around us we had no breeze.  This year we left our air conditioner at home.  We have carried it in the past but never needed it. 

Wednesday April 22nd

We got up not knowing if we were leaving today or not.  The skies did not look good.  It looked stormy and the weather report called for rain.  I was glad to see the rain but that meant if we left we may be hammered.  We stayed and watched a movie on the boat.  Poor Jack, he is not good at staying still for long.  We also washed clothes or we had Ruth wash and fold our clothes.  That was the best part of Staniel Cay to me.  It seems there is a trend in the Bahamas, rebuilding the docks and services that cater to mega yachts.  Of course, I guess I would too if I were them. 

Can you find celebration?

We plan to leave in the morning if the yacht behind of us moves.

Thursday April 23^rd

We left the docks as soon as the Motor yacht in back of us moved.  I was a little nervous because we were being pinned to the dock by the wind and all these mega yachts around us.  However with a good captain and a fantastic crew, we did great!

We were headed to Hawksbill Cay.  This island is part of the Exumas’ Sea and Land Park.  We stopped here two years ago with Greg and Charlotte.  In fact we used the same mooring ball we used then.  That year we walked and walked to find a special swimming hole that was in the cruising books and it was beautiful.  This year we just went swimming off the beach where we were moored.  Jack walked up a hill to place a rock on the pile of rock at the top. 

Friday April 24th

We left early to be sure we got to Nassau before dark.  It was a very uneventful sail.  We motored most of the way.  We wanted to anchor in Nassau the same place we anchored on the way down.  We called Nassau and told them our last port and asked permission to enter and anchor at red buoy 6.  They gave us permission.  We went through Nassau at rush hour!  Four boats were meeting us and two were passing us. All just before we were to go under two bridges.  Then during all of that we see a dingy paddling  trying to cross in front of us.  George got a little nervous with all the traffic and confusion. We set the anchor and had a well deserved beverage.     

Saturday April 25^th

We weighed the anchor and asked permission to leave.  As Jack and George were on the bow, I was at the helm and I saw an escort boat used to escort the cruise ships in and out of the harbor.  I knew we were ok to go so I just got us out into the channel.  After we were out I saw a ship coming out and one coming in.  

Today we are headed to Spanish Wells Cay.  Spanish Wells is an island that does not depend on tourist.  They are very proud of they ability to be independent.  The main income is from fishing and agriculture. We needed to pull into the dock for electricity to run the freezer.  The only space at Spanish wells was at the T dock but it did not have electricity.  The dock master said he would move us the next morning.  We got off the boat and had only had a couple of hours to shop because it was Saturday.  We rented a golf cart so we could cover the island faster.  John Wesley visited this island on his way to America.  So this island is mostly Methodist.  The Island is very well manicured. We really enjoyed the traveling around in the cart.  Even though this island is about three miles long and a half a mile wide we needed the golf cart.  We went to the shipyard Restaurant to eat dinner.  It was really nice with a view of the water on three sides. 

Dinner at The BoatYard Restaurant.

Sunday April 26^th

Nothing but a few restaurants are open today.  We took this time to drive around the island and just take in the beautiful scenery.   We saw banana, orange, coconut and mango groves. At one point you could stand on the hill and look both ways and see water.  Tomorrow we are to go to Lynyard Cay.  There are two passages.  One is through the Devil’s Backbone, where a lot of ships have meet their doom, and another longer passage.  If we go through the devil’s Backbone it will save us three hours.  Lynyard Cay is a full day sail and we don’t want to anchor at night.  Also in the afternoon the winds get up and a possibility of rain and thunderstorms.  The cruise books advise getting a captain to guide you through the Devils Backbone.  We called Bandit, a captain that had just happened to knock on our boat by mistake.  He told us he could not guide us but he would send Clayton.  George had promised me we would not go near the Devil Back Bone.  That was Saturday when we were coming in.  With a guide I felt ok with the shorter passage and so did George. 

Another Sunset

Saying goodbye to Spanish Wells

Monday April 27^th

 I was a little nervous this morning about leaving the docks.  After Jack checked out of the Marina, The Captain had tied his boat in back of Celebration.  George talked to him and paid him.  I think I was more nervous about leaving the docks than about The Devil’s Backbone.  The winds were blowing about 15 knots but in the right direction.  George backed the boat up perfectly.  The crew of course kept him off the docks and also did a perfect job.  There was a shrimp boat moving out of his slip as we approached him so we had to wait for him to leave.  We followed the Captain out the cut.  We would have never have navigated the corral heads without him!!  He would make sharp turns and then turn to go another direction weaving between unseen coral heads.  It wasn’t long before he came on the radio and told us we were clear.  We thanked him, and off we went.  We knew our $60.00 was well spent!  After getting back on our track we pulled up the main and rolled out the jib turned off the engine and sailed passed little Harbour.  However, we were sailing off our track and off the wind about 35 degrees.  We were to get to Lynard Cay at 8:00.  So we had to start the engine and motor sail. We made better time than expected and anchored at 7:00. We watched thunderstorms coming our way on the xm satellite weather but luckily they dissipated before reaching us.

Ae passed the Hope Town Light house on the way back to Marsh Harbour.

Tuesday April 28^th

We left the anchorage at 7:30 am to be sure to get to Marsh Harbour early. There was rain and thunderstorms coming that afternoon. We arrived at 11:30 but had to wait for two hours for the tide to come up so we could enter the harbor. We stopped the engine about three miles out and drifted toward Marsh. We enjoyed some BBQ ribs and at 1:30 we cranked up the engine and started toward the docks. We docked in a sprinkling rain, got safely secured to the dock and two hours later the winds got up to 53 knots – about 60 miles per hour!! 

Now, we will stay here until we can get a weather window.